UPDATE: October 7
Well, looks like as of last month, Madoka has closed for good. Sorry Islanders. Auspiciously, it also appears that Alvin Binuya has returned to his original gig at Ponti in Fremont.
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So as previously recounted, I decided to leave my urban comfort zone and wound up daytripping to Bainbridge Island a couple of weeks ago. The ultimate destination was a place called Madoka, a pan-asian “fusion” restaurant that I’d heard good things about. Chef Alvin Binuya (formerly of Seattle’s Ponti and Axis) practically invented the genre, so I figured I was in good hands.
The experience wound up being pretty disappointing. I blame Doc’s. And myself. I instinctively trusted that it would be great, because Kimagure Orange Road is pretty much my favorite anime of all time, and the main character is named Madoka. +5 shame points.
*THIS* is the entire reason I went to Madoka. OMG DUMB.
For starters, we ordered a duck & pepperjack cheese quesadilla with smoked poblano salsa and a bowl of watermelon gazpacho. Both were nice enough with some subtle heat. Unfortunately, the duck was completely lost under the much stronger flavors of the quesadilla – it could just as easily have been tofu for all I know. For the main course I had a yellowtail tataki that was equally underwhelming – the fish was fresh, but that’s about it. The bok choy on the side was actually more interesting, and all it had going for it was a simple tamari sauce. The fish was served cold with a side of piping hot beets, which clashed on the plate, on my palette, and with the universe at large.
Neither wine they recommend paired well, a local Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Gris from Oregon (I actually had to send the first one back because there was a considerable amount of sediment in the bottom of my glass… that could very well be the first time I’ve ever done that). My partner’s salmon was good-not-great, served with the skin-side of the filet plated ON TOP of the accompanying greens (scales what?), and the side of yukon gold potato purée tasted like baby food. After eating a bite of the salmon, I think my exact quote was: “Criminal”.
Lord now that I look back, it was actually worse than I thought. So odd considering that this was supposedly the place to go on the island. Binuya was in the house, so I can’t really fall back on an off-crew as an excuse. Given my experience traveling around the Puget Sound, it’s probably safe to say that island people simply judge things differently. But then, maybe I’m just being an islandist.
I will compliment them on the space – it was gorgeous. Bi-level, cool and dark and modern with Japanese accents. Romantic and comfortable, with a view of the open kitchen so you can watch the chefs at work (which I love to do).
I wouldn’t go back. For that matter, I don’t really feel like I have much use for Bainbridge Island. Skip it.
2 comments
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December 13, 2008 at 9:57 pm
Billie Taylor
Well, I don’t know who told you that Madoka was “The” destination site for dining on Bainbridge Island but as far as I know they are just beginning a long climb up from being in the dumps. Recently the food has been better than it was in the past but is still way too inconsistent for my taste. Next time you decide to leave your borough (wherever that is) try Four Swallows……the food there is always excellent.
April 15, 2009 at 2:54 pm
eM
Madoka has gotten some puzzling glowing press, my experiences there have always been mediocre to comical.
Actually, back when they served lunch I did have a couple good ones, but that probably had more to do with the wine and the company.
I agree that Four Swallows is the best restaurant in the island, but the food is pedestrian. And I am seriously flabbergasted that the menu has never changed in the 5 years I have lived here. Whenever the parents visit, we go there and I have the tenderloin, which is the best I have had anywhere. Nice wine list, but… menu never changes.
The best place to eat on Bainnbridge Island is my house, but I am only here on the weekends because I couldn’t stand the mediocrity of all things food any longer (even the Farmer’s Market is crap).