la carta de oaxaca

So I know I have previously registered my outrage regarding the abysmal Mexican food scene in the Puget Sound, but I think it’s time to explicate a bit further.  My consternation can be traced back to the very first thing I ate on my very first night in Seattle – a disturbingly bad burrito, a rank mess of refried beans and cotija cheese served “wet” (full disclosure: it was at a Jalisco’s.  Yes, I know.)  Still, I’ve had better burritos in Wisconsin.  Much to my dismay, I would soon learn that this bland Guadalajaran style of Mexican cooking was the predominant one of the area, and having just arrived from California, I wept for the future.  Where were the black beans?  The tacos al pastor?  The fiery salsas I craved?

It would take several years, but I finally found them, along with the single truly worthy Mexican joint in town – la Carta de Oaxaca.  This tiny, family-run restaurant on Ballard Avenue is exceptional, with more flavor and finesse than you’ll get from your neighborhood taco truck (the only other go-to for decent Mexican in town).  The interior is artfully adorned with local hero/photographer Spike Mafford’s iconic images from Oaxaca, lending a regional charm to the perpetually crowded cantina.  A large, smoky kitchen dominates half of the restaurant space, and a quaint, four person bar can be found in the back.  There is an impressive array of Mezcals and Tequilas available from Southern Mexico, but ever since superstar bartender Zach Harjo left to open his Spanish tapas mecca Ocho around the corner, I’d just as soon drink a Pacifico.

And it doesn’t really matter what you’re drinking, you’ll be too busy stuffing your face.  Literally every single dish on the menu is delicious, so unless you’re with a huge crew, you’re going to have to prioritize.  Easily the most beloved item at la Carta de Oaxaca is anything covered in the brilliant house mole’ negro.  I’m partial to the black mole’ tamales with either pork or chicken, steamed and served in a banana leaf which imparts a subtle sweetness to the hearty corn masa filling.  The mole’ sauce is also rich and sweet, with more emphasis on chocolate than peppers.  But we’re getting ahead of ourselves.  Begin with an order of chips and guacamole.  The housemade tortilla chips are hot and salty, and the creamy guacamole tastes like avocado paradise.  Do not skip the salsa bar.  This is easily the freshest pico de gallo in Seattle – chopped tomatoes and onions and jalapeño and cilantro combine to form an unstoppable salsa Voltron.  The salsa verde is equally compelling, with smoky tomatillos and lots of garlic.

The plates at la Carta de Oaxaca are best ordered in mass quantities and then shared family style.  Except for the tacos al pastor – you’ll want those all for yourself and then you’ll want to order more.  The sweet, barbequed pork is tangy and moist and served in lovely handmade corn tortillas.  Garnished with onions and cilantro and radishes, the heat slowly rises with each bite until you’re soon wiping your brow and singing the praises of a perfectly rendered hot sauce.  If you’re lucky, one of the Dominguez brothers might slip you a dried tepin pepper – if so, have a shot of Mezcal on hand and prepare to meet the deity of your choosing.

I could go on and on about those tacos, but I should probably give a quick shout out to the vegetarian options on the menu.  The yellow curry mushroom empanadas are definitely worth a visit, a unique dish unlike anything I’ve tasted anywhere else.  The enchiladas will not disappoint either, with a gorgeous red chile sauce and oaxaqueno cheese and a goddamned fried egg served on top.  Remarkably, even the side dishes at la Carta de Oaxaca are better than most of the average Mexican food in town.  A side of black beans or simple Mexican-style rice will find you marveling at the difference in quality that some simple spices can add to a recipe.

If you’ve never been to la Carta de Oaxaca, and you have any interest in Mexican food whatsoever, you owe it to yourself to head over there immediately.  Just look for the massive throng of people milling around Ballard Avenue waiting for a table.  Did I mention the wait?  People typically start lining up before the doors even open.  These people are wise.  They have heard about the tacos al pastor.